Cabinet Hardware Jig

[Color: Red-gray]
This furniture jig is very well-made and sturdy. We decided to keep it. But we never could figure out how to use it. We were in a bit of a hurry when we were refurbishing our antique furniture, so we just eyeballed the hardware drilling holes and decided to keep the jig and try to figure it out when we’re not such a hurry.

[Color: Red-gray]
This is the jig to get. It has so many great features and adjustments. I originally bought a cheaper jig and found it was off by nearly an 1/8 inch over a 7 inch span, which to me is unacceptable. This jig allows for adjustment to true the jig. The stand off legs are so helpful, I do wish it had included 4 instead of 3 but still worked great. Do yourself a favor and buy this jig, you will not regret it.

[Color: Blue-gray]
Have I ever had trouble drilling for cabinet handles? Not really--maybe an angled hole here and there that made installation tight, but it happens. This is a pretty straightforward jig that helps maintain consistent drilling across multiple drawers (and can be used for doors, as well). The build is fairly robust and durable. Does it entirely eliminate measuring? No (particularly regarding left-to-right centering on wider drawers), but it does cut it down substantially.

[Color: Red-gray]
Really great product, it is perfect for shaker style drawers and cabinets! There's no wiggle or movements and the functionality is just exceptional. Great value for the money, when compared to the other expensive options.

[Color: Blue-gray, Color: Blue-gray]
This cabinet hardware jig works great. It's a solid, well-designed unit. Everything is metal, mostly anodized aluminum. A lot of thought has gone into this device. For example, little things like the slot for holding a drill bit and bushing for all the drill sites.This is a versatile device, too. It's marked for all the common widths of cabinet hardware, but it's completely adjustable - there's nothing stopping you from using something unique. This can be really handy for mounting backer plates that don't always follow the usual measurements. The markings are all vivid and easy to read. They're laser etched rather than stamped into the metal, so they could wear off with enough use. I can't imagine how many decades that might take. And it's a compact tool - everything fits into a neat bag.In use, the solid aluminum bars have zero flex and that metal offers a lot more confidence than some flimsy sheet of plastic with some holes. There is a slight parallax between the marks on the sliders vs. the marks on the rule. This doesn't create a problem, though. Overall, this tool has been a time saver and a good value at around $75.

[Color: Red-gray]
Great product for the price,professional grade quality .you would love this product.easy to use.

[Color: Blue-gray]
Muy bueno. De buen material fácil de ensamblar y operar

[Color: Blue-gray, Color: Blue-gray]
I keep a drawer full of jigs for this kind of work - hinge jigs, drilling guides, the usual pro-grade suspects - and this cabinet hardware jig is the hardiest of the lot. It is milled from 8mm aluminum, not stamped or cast, with the graduations cut right into the face instead of printed on to wear away. The thing has so much heft I am fairly sure it moo'd once when I set it on the bench. For a tool whose entire job is putting holes in exactly the right place, that mass and rigidity is not showing off - it is the whole point. ——— Putting It to WorkI ran it on a drawer front - a spare face, as it happens, because the original picked up a nick while I was shuffling the new planer around the shop. The pulls on these drawers are all 5-inch centers, mounted dead-center on the face. The jig is not boxed into one layout, either - it handles single-hole knobs, two-hole pulls, and even the occasional three-hole pull you do run into out there.So how does it stack up against the way I would normally do this? My usual method for a job like that is quick: grab the plastic template the pull manufacturer includes, find the true horizontal center of the face, mark, and drill with a brad-point bit. The jig is more work than that - you set it, register it, clamp it down. But it is also more accurate, and more to the point it is more repeatable across a run of drawers, where every pull has to land in the same spot or the eye catches it. The kind of mismatch Mrs. Patrick spots in a heartbeat before a piece ever ships.That trade-off tells you exactly who this is for. For my own shop work - a one-off drawer, a quick fix - I will reach for the template and the brad-point every time; it is faster and plenty good. But for a customer's kitchen, where a dozen drawers and doors all have to match and "close enough" is not close enough, the jig's accuracy is worth the extra few minutes. This is a customer-project tool, and a good one. ——— That Build, AgainIt is the headline, so it bears coming back to. Milled 8mm aluminum means it does not flex, does not wander under the drill, and does not wear its markings off after a season - the milled-in graduations will still read true years from now, which printed or stamped scales will not. I own several pro-quality jigs and none of them feel as solid in the hand as this one. If it has a fault, it is that all that beef is overkill for the casual user who just needs to hang a few knobs. For someone doing hardware for a living, though, overbuilt is precisely the right kind of fault.One more touch worth calling out: it ships with two spare collets. The collet the bit passes through wears with use on any jig like this, and this is the only hardware jig I have come across that hands you replacements right in the box - so a worn or damaged guide means swapping a part, not buying a whole new jig. It also tucks in spare set screws and a small allen key to drive them, and stores that key right on the jig in a magnetized groove - so it is there when you reach for it instead of lost in a drawer. A small thing, and a telling one: somebody who makes these clearly uses them. Even the instructions get the same care - printed on glossy card stock and pre-folded into a neat stack, not a flimsy sheet that tears and vanishes the first week. The first card in the deck simply says "Thank You" in big letters, which is a small, human thing to lead with and a hat tip to whoever runs packaging and customer experience over there. Nice job.It does seem a touch undecided about what it wants to be. It comes with a wall hanger - which points to a permanent home over the bench - and also a zippered storage bag, which points to living in a kit and traveling. I am not complaining: I like having both options, and I will put the hanger to use, either for the jig itself or for the bag hung beside it. Giving the buyer the choice is the right call. ——— The one real knock is small but worth knowing: the cross-beam assembly rides on two little 3mm button-head bolts, and those are easy to strip or snap off if you crank on them. Snug them firmly and stop - they do not need to be gorilla-tight, and on a tool this otherwise solid, those two small fasteners are the one place I would treat gently. ——— Pro Tip - Find Center First, Then Let a Brad-Point Do the Locating: Whatever you mark with - this jig or a plastic template - drill the hole itself with a brad-point bit, not a twist bit. The center spur bites exactly where you want it and keeps the bit from skating across a finished face, which on cabinet hardware is the line between a clean hole and a ruined door. And always establish the true horizontal center of the face before anything else; every other measurement references from there. The jig does include a 5mm brad-point, but it is nothing to write home about - I swapped in one of my own and got cleaner holes for the trouble. Pro Tip - Tape the Back to Beat Tearout: A drill bit punches out the ba...